In the Garden

Master Gardener

It has been a busy week at Sandhill Gardens. The annual garden exchange gathering was not huge, but I would say it was a success. I have several plants here that were left by participants, so if you are interested, stop in and pick some up this week. Otherwise, I have been busy working on raised beds for vegetables, planting, trimming and mowing. I have also been watering. While some limited areas have received rain, the showers have been spotty, and much of southern Indiana is facing drought conditions. I am fortunate to have a large tank for storing rain water, but if we do not receive rain soon, I will be forced to get out the hoses.

Water is a basic need for plants, and newly-planted specimens need to receive regular watering, especially for the first year. While sprinklers make watering easy, they are not the most effective way to get moisture to your plants. Sprinklers should be used early in the morning. Using them during the afternoon may result in excess evaporation. Evening use means that foliage will be wet at night, and that may result in fungal diseases. Systems of drip irrigation are much better, but there is considerable expense involved. Most of us resort to hand watering, whether from a hose or a watering can.

Get the water where it is needed—the roots. Certainly, natural rain gets the foliage wet, but keeping the foliage dry is healthier for the plants in most situations. Deep watering is also best. Wetting the top of the soil causes plants to put out more surface roots to pick up that water. Watering deeply results in deep roots, which better support the plant and which equip the plant to go after the deep ground water. It also means that you do not have to water as often.

During extremely hot, dry periods, it may be necessary to water containers more than once a day. Water containers until water comes out the drainage holes. Clustering containers will create more humidity in an area and will help ease watering chores a bit. It is best to crowd plants into containers so there is no exposed soil. This helps ease evaporation.

Mulch is also an important element in easing the need for irrigation. Mulching around plants helps prevent evaporation. It also helps keep the soil moisture more even, and that can be important, especially with tomatoes.

The mulch you use depends on the plant you are mulching and personal preferences. I recommend using organic mulches, which will eventually break down and enrich the soil. In ornamental gardens, I prefer to use shredded wood mulch.

I usually put cardboard down first to help smother the weeds, and then cover the area with the wood chips. In areas where they are available, nut hulls, pine straw and sea shells also may be used as mulch. In the vegetable patch, I tend to use mulches that will break down in a single season. Straw, shredded leaves and shredded paper are good choices. When using shredded paper, I put it in a large tub and soak it before putting it around the plants. The wet paper mats together and will not blow around.

I often hear people using the terms "mulch" and "compost" interchangeably. They are NOT the same. Mulch is organic or inorganic material used to cover the area around plants for weed and moisture control and for aesthetic reasons. Compost is decomposed organic matter. Compost may be used as mulch, but is more commonly used as a soil additive to improve the tilth of the soil.

In my recent travels around southern Indiana, I have been alarmed at the amount of poison hemlock growing along roadways.

This is probably the worst of the invasive plants, and one may absorb enough toxins to cause death if one touches this plant. I urge everyone to inspect your property for this weed. (You may find pictures on the internet to help identify it.) People who read this column regularly know that I do not use chemicals often, but this is one time I would urge you to do so. If you happen to touch the plant, you may feel a burning sensation. Wash with soap and water and get to a medical facility as quickly as possible.

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